Grand Capucin – Via Bonatti-Ghigo

Grand Capucin – Via Bonatti-Ghigo
La gita
4 05/08/2007

We did the route with two days in mind and more of an AID approach for my own experience. One of my best experiences! Hence, we did not start at the original start (red line), and instead we did a direct variation (blue line).

Saturday we fixed 150 m of rope and went out early on Sunday to jumar up them to finish of the climb. We did the line in a mix of AID and free to reach the summit in time.

Material: Jumars, Aiders, Haulbag, 1 blue 2 yellow 2 red 2 green BD, 2 red 2 yellow, 2 green 2 blue 2 black 1 black/blue Aliens, full set of nuts, slings and carabiners.

Note: The couloir on the left collects all the things falling down, pitons on the route are not always to be trusted, the terrace on the upper part has a lot of loose rock and be careful if someone is climbing below you.

Perfect weather the whole weekend and the crevasses are starting to open themselves.

Green line is more or less the abseil way (not exactly!) with good anchors all the way.

Link copiato