david


Le mie gite su gulliver

Giudizio Complessivo :: *** / ***** stelle
condizioni ghiaccio :: Very thin
tipo ghiaccio :: Wet with substantial crust
note su accesso stradale :: Clean
quota neve m :: 1000
Made a track in the fresh snow up to the base. First pitch very delicate with fixed belay covered in ice. Skipped the first belay and stopped at the second. Second and third pitches very thin. Required concentration.
Climbed with Silla, thanks for the company and sharing an engaging climb !!!!

First pitch

Third pitch
Giudizio Complessivo :: *** / ***** stelle
condizioni ghiaccio :: Thin
tipo ghiaccio :: Wet
note su accesso stradale :: Clean
quota neve m :: 1200
At the very limit of climbable. The first pitch especially was very delicate. The second and third a bit better.
Climbed with Francesco, always a pleasure.

First pitch


Giudizio Complessivo :: *** / ***** stelle
condizioni ghiaccio :: Good
tipo ghiaccio :: A bit crusty
note su accesso stradale :: Perfect
quota neve m :: 1300
Steep snow cone to approach nebbia. We divided the ice fall into three pitches. Plenty of ice to climb safely but a little thin in places. The pine tree which was the final belay has fallen down. We left a nice Abalakov just below the tree and were able to get down with one 60m abseil. Palestra well formed and Tormenta looked good as well.
Great day with Silla.


Giudizio Complessivo :: **** / ***** stelle
condizioni ghiaccio :: Good
tipo ghiaccio :: Wet
note su accesso stradale :: Perfect
quota neve m :: 1300
Notwithstanding the high daytime temperatures the conditions were great. All three pitches well formed.
Thanks to Francesco for a great climb.

Francesco on the first pitch
Giudizio Complessivo :: *** / ***** stelle
condizioni ghiaccio :: What you would expect for 14th April and 10 degrees
tipo ghiaccio :: Granita
note su accesso stradale :: Check out the photo
quota neve m :: 800
We climbed the first pitch only, interesting conditions. The second pitch was still there but with the temperature climbing we rapped off. At 13:30 and 10 degrees we had avalanches coming down on both sides of the valley on the way out. One crossed the road in front of us as we approached.
Thanks to Silla for breaking trail all the way. Alone in the valley. I gave the trip three stars because the valley was so beautiful.

Nuovo Respiro

access road
Giudizio Complessivo :: *** / ***** stelle
condizioni ghiaccio :: Good
tipo ghiaccio :: Crusty
note su accesso stradale :: Clean
quota neve m :: 1500
The first section was covered in snow leaving about 20 metres to climb. Used snow shoes to get there. Still solid and climbable, no signs of melting yet. A bit crusty.
Climbed with Silla.

Giudizio Complessivo :: **** / ***** stelle
Like any recently opened route watch out for lose blocks. We used 60 m twin ropes and descended with 3 abseils no problem. Gold standard bolting, all of the more difficult sections are very well protected.
A big thank you to Franco and Alex from Silla and I. We had a great climb in perfect conditions. The only thing missing was our friend Francesco.
Giudizio Complessivo :: ***** / ***** stelle
Tornato oggi a questa bella falesia con l'instancabile Silla. Ho lasciato un rinvio trovata a meta della via capucine, alla base insieme con delle ciabate.
Giudizio Complessivo :: ***** / ***** stelle
La falesia e' ottimamente spittata con soste a prova di bomba. Dopo due giorni di intensa pioggia la falesia era già asciutta dopo un'ora di sole. E' un posto molto caldo quindi non da piena estate. Roccia nera un po' particolare. Ricordati che e' nuova quindi potrebbe muoversi ancora qualche sasso.


Grazie agli apritori, hanno fatto un gran bel lavoro.